THOMAS CULWELL

PHOTOGRAPHER   ·   WOODWORKER   ·   TRAVELER   ·   RUNNER   ·   PROBLEM SOLVER   ·   WEB DEVELOPER   ·   LIFELONG LEARNER   ·   WANDERER

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VIETNAM

JUNE 2022

Vietnam has a magical way of leaving a lasting impression on the soul. The country has a richness and vibrancy you won’t find anywhere else. You’ll sweat under the summer humidity while navigating crowded streets and embracing the chaos of the motorbikes weaving through traffic. But most importantly, you’ll fall in love with the unexpected moments – the scent of street food drifting through the air, the hum of conversations in outdoor cafes, and the feeling of being immersed in a culture so alive and full of character. It may be a controversial take, but in hindsight, I’m glad I experienced Vietnam in the summer among the heat and humidity – I saw Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Hoi An, Ha Giang, and many other incredible places in their true, unfiltered form – after all, that’s when they’re at their best.

Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh City

It’s loud. It’s busy. It’s chaotic. It’s all gas, no brakes.

 

Saigon has a unique way of encouraging you to step out of your comfort zone and try new things. The city possesses an irresistible charm that draws you in, challenging you to think differently and broaden your horizons. I had the chance to explore the city’s food scene, and here are some of my standouts – enjoy!

Cafés

If you’re after the vibes, 2PM Coffee has what you need. Near Vinhomes Central Park, this spot is covered in greenery and serves one hell of an egg coffee. It’s multiple stories and has great views of the city – I will certainly be back when I return to Ho Chi Minh.

 

Padma de Fleur is a must stop in Ho Chi Minh City. Doubling as a florist and a café, this spot sells tastes and scents alike in a tucked-away shop.

 

The Workshop Coffee is a great place to stop in for a more traditional American breakfast, serving fruit-topped pancakes and other delightful breakfast dishes.

Pho & Banh Mi

Bánh Mì Hồng Hoa vs Bánh Mì Huynh Hoa

It wouldn’t be a complete Vietnam blog without Banh Mi, so let’s cut to the chase – both are excellent. But in my highly unprofessional and humble opinion, Bánh Mì Huynh Hoa reigns supreme. Give them both a try and let me know which one’s got the edge!

 

Phở bò viên thập cẩm

Just an incredible bowl of Pho. Nothing much more to say. They’ve been doing it right for years, and they’ll continue to crush it for many more.

Phở bò viên thập cẩm

Other Eats

Banh Xeo 46A

This place has some serious allure and fame, specifically for their Banh Xeo (no shit), a crispy and savory Vietnamese crepe, which is wrapped in herbs and served alongside fish sauce. No disappointments here.

 

Vinh Khanh Food Street

If there is one singular place to experience food in Ho Chi Minh City, it’s gotta be Vinh Khanh Street. Endless seafood options and just immaculate vibes down there. Dad and I ate at Quan Oc Vu after walking around for a bit. We grabbed some snails, clams, and octopus, and washed it all down with a couple of Tigers.

Vinh Khanh Food Street

Hoi An

Halfway between Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi lies a charming little town that, truth be told, isn’t known for sightseeing, excursions, or any of the usual reasons places become popular tourist destinations. And yet, Hoi An was one of the best places I visited in Vietnam. It was a place where simply sitting back and relaxing became the best way to experience it. So, that’s exactly what we did – and let its charm work its magic. Dad and I wandered through the markets, shops, cafes, and restaurants, with no agenda other than to experience something new – and we loved it to bits.

  1. The Espresso Station: Try something new here; they have some cool options. A charcoal latte could be your next favorite drink.
  1. Phin Coffee Hoi An: Eggs, avocado toast, coffee. Approachable. Beautiful. Relaxed. What a little hidden gem this place is.
  1. Reaching Out Teahouse: A teahouse for the deaf – enjoy the experience in silence.

Ninh Binh

Thánh Đường Giáo Xứ Lãng Vân

Riding into town on my motorbike, I spotted a massive, stunning white cathedral under construction. As I approached, I saw only a couple of workers on one side, with little else going on. Curious, I parked and stepped inside. With no handrails to hold onto, I climbed all the way to the top, where I was rewarded with sweeping views of the town, the surrounding countryside, and the Van Log Wetland Nature Reserve.

Hang Mua & Trang An

Nestled in northern Vietnam, Ninh Binh is home to breathtaking landscapes, and two of its most iconic sites are Hang Mua and Trang An. Hang Mua is famous for its dramatic limestone peaks and panoramic views of the Tam Coc river valley below. A steep hike up to the top reveals a stunning vista of lush rice paddies, winding rivers, and towering karst formations.

 

Just a short distance away, Trang An offers a serene, picturesque experience through its tranquil river system, surrounded by lush greenery and towering limestone mountains. Often referred to as “Halong Bay on land,” a boat ride here takes you through caves and past ancient temples, immersing visitors in both natural beauty and history.

 

Both locations showcase Ninh Binh’s otherworldly charm, making it a must-visit destination for nature lovers and adventurers alike.

Ha Giang Loop

A trip to Vietnam wouldn’t be complete without a journey along the stunning Ha Giang Loop, which offers some of the country’s most awe-inspiring landscapes with backdrops of rugged-green mountains, winding roads, terraced rice fields, and remote villages.

Hanoi

The capital. This place has gots the goods.

Cafés

TLDR: If you’re in town for a short trip, don’t miss Tranquil Books & Coffee.

 

Cong Caphe

Yes, this chain is everywhere in Vietnam. And yes, it can feel like the Vietnamese Starbucks. But it’s really not… I found Cong Ca Phe to be quite charming, serving an absolutely delicious iced coconut coffee for those of you who have a severe sweet tooth like myself.

Cong Caphe

Tranquil Artisan Coffee

The list is short of cafés that captivate my soul in the way that Tranquil does. “Hidden gem” doesn’t do it justice. When ambience elevates the purity of the coffee, you know you’re in a special place. Thank you Linh.

 

Tranquil Books & Coffee

A true sister to Tranquil Artisan. Beautiful, quaint, and perfectly (quietly) off the beaten path.

Hanoi House Café

Doubling as a café in the morning hours and a swanky, intimate cocktail bar in the evenings, Hanoi House Café may be one of the coolest spots in the city. If you’re looking to transport 50 years back, then put on a three-piece suit, walk up the hidden back stairs, and sit at one of the three small tables upstairs tables that overlooks the incredibly beautiful, backlit bar, and order a martini. Sip once, look around, give someone a nod, and watch yourself reinvent a cooler James Bond.

 

Nhà hàng La Place

Adjacent from Hanoi House Café & Cocktail Bar and down the road from Cong Caphe is another quaint café for small plates and coffee. Although this wouldn’t be my first stop when I’m in the area, it’s a great place to stop if for some reason you’ve grown tired of Hanoi House.

 

An Café

An Café is more of a sandwich spot than a café, serving Banh mi and other Vietnamese sandwiches in a medium-sized space that oddly reminded me of my grandmother’s house – uniquely upholstered chairs, many pictures, decor, and other art held upright on the wall by solid teak shelving units. The interior design makes the space feel sparse and interestingly Texan / Western.

 

Suddha Apartment & Café

Distinctive. Colorful. Charming. This ground-floor café of the beautiful Suddha Hotel sits in a category of one. Brightly upholstered mid-century furniture sits atop white and blue mosaic tiled flooring. The coffee is excellent, and the space will make you wish you wore your hard-bottomed loafers and an almost-completely-unbuttoned white oxford.

 

Choo Choo Coffee

Nothing incredibly special about this joint except for the fact that you can BE INCHES FROM AN ACTIVE TRAIN COMING DIRECTLY THROUGH THE CITY. Very cool experience. I’d recommend any spot in this area to see the train pass.

 

Café Giang

Egg coffee can be found in many places in the city, but none stand up to the one served at Café Giang. Sweet, creamy, bitter, delicious. Just do it.

Dinh Café

Outside of Café Giang, Dinh Café is going to be your best bet for egg coffee. And it’s right on the lake, so you can mozy on over to Den Ngoc Son afterwards.

 

Loading T Café

Loading T is just cool… environment and ambience are top tier. You could simply stop in and drink a water here and be fully satisfied.

Restaurants

Banh Mi. Pho. Bun cha.

Bánh canh ghẹ 69

I was lucky enough to have been with some amazing Vietnamese coworkers for a few days in Hanoi. They showed me this spot, which serves many seafood options and broth- and noodle-based dishes that were perfect. The food was incredible; the community was even better.

Bánh mì BiBim

My “daily bread”. Most mornings, this was my first stop of the day. A quick breakfast banh mi. It never missed.

 

Bún chả Hương Liên

I only had bún chả a handful a times, but this was the best stop on my short list. If I’m not mistaken, this is where President Obama shared a $6 meal with Anthony Bourdain.

 

Bun Cha Dac Kim

Another spot for bun cha with less foot traffic than Huong Lien.

 

Hà Nội Social Club

A cool spot when you’re looking for some peace and quiet, serving light and health-conscious fare.

 

Muối Tiêu – Salt n’ Pepper Kitchen

If you’re looking for a more traditional American / English meal, this is a great spot. Serving health-conscious dishes focusing on fruits and veggies, this is a delicious spot to get your hands on some Western fare.

Phờ Cồ Cử

I would consider this a Vietnamese dive for Pho, with all the best qualities. Some folding chairs, a few round tables, an open kitchen, and quick service. An incredible spot to pop in and out.

Bars & Cocktails

Gallery Bespoke Cocktail Bar

Farther North from downtown, Gallery sits slightly apart from the hustle and bustle, serving elevated cocktails in a dark, swanky atmosphere.

 

Polite & Co

The servers wear ties, the clientele wear suits and cocktail dresses, the drinks are bomb, and the space is gorgeous. Stop by Polite & Co and you’ll simply feel better about yourself.

 

Top of Hanoi

Take the elevator up and grab a drink here at least once. Sure, the drinks aren’t anything special, but the views most definitely are.

THOMAS CULWELL

PHOTOGRAPHER   ·   WOODWORKER   ·   TRAVELER   ·   RUNNER   ·   PROBLEM SOLVER   ·   WEB DEVELOPER   ·   LIFELONG LEARNER   ·   WANDERER

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Matt Mullan

THOMAS CULWELL

PHOTOGRAPHER   ·   WOODWORKER   ·   TRAVELER   ·   RUNNER   ·   PROBLEM SOLVER   ·   WEB DEVELOPER   ·   LIFELONG LEARNER   ·   WANDERER

NEW YORK CITY
UNITED STATES

THOMAS CULWELL

PHOTOGRAPHER   ·   WOODWORKER   ·   TRAVELER   ·   RUNNER   ·   PROBLEM SOLVER   ·   WEB DEVELOPER   ·   LIFELONG LEARNER   ·   WANDERER

NEW YORK CITY
UNITED STATES

MATT MULLAN
PHOTOGRAPHER

NEW YORK CITY
UNITED STATES

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THOMAS CULWELL
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NEW YORK CITY
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About

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